Your Average White Girl

Red potato stacks with Alderwood smoked salt

2008-08-01T10:19:00.000-07:00

By Amy Simon and Andrea Afra

Alderwood smoked sea salt adds a delicious smoky flavor without the addition of smoked meats. The muffin pan perfectly shapes each serving.

2 pound of red potatoes

1/3 cup each of shredded Parmigiano Reggiano, Gouda (aged), and Gruyere

3 Tbsp Salish Alderwood smoked sea salt

2 Tbsp butter, melted

3 green onions chopped

PREPARATION

Wash and slice potatoes coin thin. Coat muffin tins with butter. Add first layer of Parmesan cheese, then a layer of potatoes. Sprinkle a small pinch of smoked salt then add a layer of Gruyere, another layer of potatoes. Drizzle a bit of butter in each tin then top with Gouda. If you choose to use only one type cheese, stick with Gruyere or any good Swiss. Sprinkle tops with another small pinch of smoked salt- a little goes a long way- and bake uncovered at 400°F for around thirty minutes or until the potatoes are soft. Remove from pan and garnish with fresh chives.

A fine balance: Rouge New American Cuisine

2008-08-01T10:16:00.001-07:00

By Andrea Afra

Centrally located on Westheimer near Montrose, Rouge’s classy interior features shades of plum, white linens, and a well stocked wine room. An elevator leads up to the ballroom which has hosted many grand events and a balcony overlooking the busy traffic. The professional waitstaff knows what you need before you know it. And now that Egyptian born, Milan raised Chef Aldo ElSharif at the kitchen helm, the restaurant is headed towards ultimate greatness.

The food is by far the best feature of this French fusion restaurant. The chef’s famedom is due to the experience he has had as a saucier. Each dish is bathed in an ethereal concoction tailor made to highlight the main ingredient. Boasting high quality ingredients like Amish free range chicken and Cherokee River trout flown in from the Great Smokey Mountains, the menu is full of delightful surprises.

I stopped by for a quick lunch bite a few days before our main visit. I sampled the beef short ribs braised in sugarcane, molasses and balsamic vinegar. From the ingredient line up I expected it to be sticky-sweet and was proven wrong with the first bite. The tender meat gave way under my fork. A delicious balsamic vinegar stood face to face with the sugary ingredients, denying them of their cloyingly sweet characters. The flavors came together like a perfectly sung chord. It all sat upon a foundation of thick and buttery truffled mashed potatoes.

I saw two women dining together and out of curiosity and that southern talent for talking to anyone about anything, I asked them what they had for lunch. Mrs. McBride told me that her dish, the Grilled Airline Chicken, was absolutely wonderful. Her friend, Mrs. Bond, ate the Trout Almondine which she said was better than any trout she’d ever had. “And I know trout.” She also said that Rouge is the best known secret that needs to get out. Chef Aldo came out to sit and talk with us for a while and explained that the trout was a surprise find on a vacation to his cabin in the Great Smokey Mountains. “It’s not my cooking that makes it great”, he modestly says, “It’s the quality of the ingredients.”

I found that statement to be only partially true last weekend when I dined there with my husband, brother-in-law Kenny, and his wife. It is both the chef’s emphasis on quality and incredible talent in the kitchen that makes for a great meal.

Upon entering Rouge for dinner we knew we were in for a great experience starting with the cordial and accommodating staff. The dining room is split into table tops and cozy booths. We fit more comfortably at a table with most of the other diners. At first glance the clientele was noticeably older than we, but they were all drinking wine so we knew that this was a fun crowd.

We browsed through the menu and decided to start with an appetizer simply titled ‘Mussels, Clams, and Shrimp’. I am not a fan of mussels or clams but let me tell you that they were very fresh and the sauce that they were served in made the whole table lose our composure. It was an unearthly flavor, a balance of Saffron and cream and Pernod. Pernod is a brand of pastis related to ouzo, a licorice liquer flavored with star-anise that is the signature drink of Southern France. Again, I am not a fan of licorice but Chef Aldo somehow makes it sing in this dish. We literally wiped the bowl clean with our bread.

Foregoing salads, we opted for wine and dirty martinis instead. The wine list is so reasonable, the prices at or very near retail. Jill, my brother-in-law’s wife, ordered the sea bass, I the pecan crusted ‘opakapaka’ Hawaiian snapper, my husband a dish of grilled lobster, Diver sea scallops and shrimp, and my brother-in-law, good old Aggie boy that he is, opted for the ribeye.

The dishes soon arrived without much fanfare as they spoke loudly on their own. My dish was beautiful yet simplistic. A sauce of truffle honey, sage and pomegranate accompanied two filets encrusted with crushed pecans. With it came baby asparagus and potatoes, leaving the fish as the star of the show. I offered a taste to everyone else, if only so I could taste theirs as well. Luckily they all fell for my plan.

My husbands dish had a mild Creole hint in the lobster bisque sauce. The seafood was succulent and escorted by a mysterious creamy black risotto that I wished I had on my plate, too.

Jill’s Chilean Sea Bass was covered in a brilliant yellow sauce of saffron, basil, and a hint of citrus. Her husband, as I, was worried that it would be too sweet and fruity, which was far from being true. The citrus flavor is light as is the basil, allowing the exotic saffron to headline the dish. The fish itself was as moist as the scallops and came along with a large handful of jumbo lump crab and a giant prawn.

Kenny’s ribeye was an outrageous, thirty some-odd ounces of USDA Prime beef. We all pitched in to help finish it off but it was truly a daunting task. Topped with strips of colorful bell peppers, wild mushrooms and a garlicky sauce of tomatoes and anchovy, I’ve never had a steak of such grade, so reasonably priced at only $29. In fact all of our dishes were under $30.

In the end we were sweet talked into dessert, something I never pass up. We shared the Cannelonni-Canoli combination. A soft chocolate cannelonni was filled with toasty truffled chocolate and nuts while its crunchy canola counterpart oozed with mascarpone and zabaglione, an Italian custard. It was hard to contain my chortles of bliss with each bite.

I am also amazed that Rouge offers a $17 lunch with some remarkable menu items to choose from. If you haven’t been to Rouge give it a try. Chef Aldo will be there to guide you to find the ultimate meal. If you’ve been to Rouge before, when Chef Aldo wasn’t rocking the kitchen, then by all means get there as fast as possible. Also, they will soon open a wine and piano bar next door aptly called Moulin Rouge.

When people find out that I eat to earn my bread and butter as a food writer, they always ask me for suggestions on where they should eat next. I typically ask them what they are in the mood for, their budget, et cetera. I want them to enjoy the experience as it is a reflection on my tastes and this magazine. Now I know that I can safely recommend Rouge for all occasions. Be it a quick business lunch or a romantic dinner for two, Rouge has everything going for it.

(August cover story)

812 Westheimer Rd
Houston, TX 77006
(713) 520-7955

www.rougerestaurant.com

Greek Out- Niko Niko’s

2008-08-01T10:15:00.000-07:00

520 Montrose Blvd, Houston, 77006 - (713) 528-1308

By Andrea Afra

If you are from Houston, then you have heard of Niko Niko’s. You’ve probably been there a few times and you could be one of hundreds of regular customers that flock to this fixture of a Greek restaurant. As of May 1^st, Niko Niko’s will be celebrating its 29^th birthday.

There is a key reason for its lasting so long- the food is consistently good. People know that there may be new restaurants popping up every day and it’s always fun to try new things. Yet it’s nice to know that, without fail, Niko Niko’s will always be there to provide a quick, healthy meal. Then again, there are plenty of ways a meal can start out healthy and end up guilt-inducing.

After twenty something years of building notoriety one problem became more than evident. If the restaurant was to remain a success, they had to do expand. Opting for renovating the building instead of opening another location, blueprints were drawn up to build out and still keep the place open for business. Loyal customers ignored the construction and cheered the company on as they added more tables, enclosed the old patio and gave the place a much needed makeover. What once was a very ‘mom and pop’ style building was revamped into a well polished diner. You still order your food from the cashier and receive it on paper plates with plasticware. The same faces greet you each time you come back because the staff is happy and well taken care of. It’s just a little nicer now.

I remember my first time at Niko Niko’s, over ten years ago. I was a vegetarian and ordered a hummus plate but what I remember was my first impression of the bread. I had never had pita bread before. The pita wedges served with the dip were lightly toasted and chewy. It’s good to know that some things will never change. Their bread is still divine, one of life’s little pleasures. I will fight dirty for the last slice so I’ve learned to save face and order an extra side.

It would take all day for me to tell you about all of the different foods I’ve had here but needless to say there hasn’t been one dish that I didn’t like. The salads are good but the dressing makes them great. The beef souvlaki is tender and perfectly marinated. The lemon-infused baked potatoes are heart-achingly good while the hand cut fries will forever be my weakness.

For those of you who either haven’t discovered Niko Niko’s or have gotten stuck on one favorite dish, you’ll find a lot of great food on the menu if you’ll just give it a try. They even have a new fried calamari recipe that will really impress you. In no particular order here are a few of my top picks:

Kreato Soupa- a hearty comfort food, several notches above an everyday vegetable beef stew

Greek Salad- a large slab of Feta cheese and the killer Greek dressing make for a stinky yet excellent starter

Hummus- Blended with fresh parsley for color and a hint of flavor, an extra kick of lemon really ‘Greekifies’ this version of hummus

Souvlaki Sandwich- lovely chunks of juicy beef with tomatoes, onions and tzatziki, a cucumber-yogurt sauce

Fried Fish Kid’s Meal- Awesomely battered white fish filets atop a pile of home fries, big enough for you take a few bites from your kiddo.

Souzoukakia- Big Greek meatballs in tomato sauce and Feta cheese make this home-style dish a garlicky favorite of mine.

Galaktoboureko- For dessert you can try to conquer a huge brick of custard and flaky fillo dough topped with cinnamon and a honey sauce. Oh my lands, this is the man of my dreams in dessert form. Big, sweet and rich!

Greek coffee- Anywhere, anytime, this mainstay is a dark little devil that will give you a great pick me up, especially after trying to tackle such a mighty meal.

Niko Niko’s has stamina, a steely yet flexible backbone that is the product of the matriarch that established the place firmly in its foundation. Dimitri, son of the original owners, Chrisanthio and Eleni Fetokakis, has the business firmly by the reins but his mother still has him by his. She comes in regularly to cook and greet the customers. I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve seen her, silver bowl in hand, drizzling honey syrup over her famous sticky sweet Loukoumades, or Greek Honey Balls.

The history of Niko Niko’s runs deep. It started as a walk-up gyro stand built on the grounds of an old gas station. After immigrating to Canada, Eleni began singing in Greek nightclubs around the States. You can easily still see the young Grecian beauty from the black and white photos in the eyes and smile of Eleni today. Her second marriage to a restaurateur in the US sealed her fate behind the stove when she and her husband opened the little Greek food hut. She was literally born into the restaurant business when her mother went into labor at her father’s restaurant in Greece. As she grew up she learned most of the recipes found on the menu at Niko Niko’s. Eventually her son Dimitri bought the restaurant and after a few years renovated it to hold more hungry people, where they ate happily ever after.

Happy birthday Niko Niko’s. You’ve come a long way.

The Legend of the Red Door - The Last Concert Cafe

2008-08-01T10:12:00.000-07:00

By Andrea Afra, photgraphed by Jordan Chan- EvolutionFotos.com

Houstonians know good and well that many dreams have been wiped out by urban construction projects. Look at the businesses along I-10 out west. The majority of restaurants and stores along each side of the freeway have been uprooted and put out of business. The few that remain are taking a risk in hopes that the concrete monster—which will be 18 lanes wide when completed—won’t swallow them whole when it passes their way. Property value along the roadway has fallen and people who have investments around the area are left with little or nothing at all.

Back in the late ‘60s, the development of I-10 was working its way through what is now the Warehouse District. A restaurant in the area, owned by a little old lady named Elena “Mama” Lopez, was facing demolition to make way for the freeway. She decided that her establishment, her last venture—The Last Concert Café—wouldn’t kneel before the wrecking ball when authorities notified her of the plans. And how exactly does one stop a $500 million project in its tracks? Blackmail is always a good start.

In its former life in the ‘40s Last Concert was a well-known local brothel. Located in a neighborhood of homes with no freeway in site, one woman who grew up there recalled that she got the biggest whipping of her life when her mama found out she had been peeking over the fence into the brothel’s backyard.

The house that the restaurant was built behind once provided the secrecy needed back in those days when liquor, homosexuality and women by the hour weren’t so widely accepted. A red door marked the spot and remained locked unless you knocked twice and were granted entry. Nearly every lascivious urge could be fulfilled all in one convenient location. Many respectable, powerful gentlemen (and women one would suppose) would pay a visit to the speakeasy and for a few bucks they could buy an hour or so of some female “company.” It was also Houston’s first gay bar, and one of the only places to buy liquor by the drink. In 1949 Mama Lopez turned it into a Mexican restaurant but its “good-time” reputation stayed.

In the late ‘60s, 20 years later, the café was threatened by the construction of I-10, so Mama did a little reminiscing. It turns out that a few choice people involved with the roadway project were also old patrons of the establishment well before they were serving up hot enchiladas. So, long story short, it was awfully nice of those lawyers and judges to work so hard to accommodate Mama Lopez and move the freeway over enough to allow the restaurant to remain standing. She passed away in 1985 at the age of 92. Her portrait hangs just inside the door, her eyes alive as ever and full of knowing.

Flash forward to 2006.

Current owner of LCC, Dawn Fudge, celebrated her 20th year at Last Concert Café this past summer. When she was 15 years old (the same age this writer discovered LCC) she was in awe of the place. It was the laidback atmosphere, the psychedelic décor of brightly painted walls and eccentric knick-knacks that set it apart from other hoity-toity downtown restaurants. That, and the fact that it was nearly impossible to find. Pushed up against the 1-10 East exit for Nance and McKee streets, the easiest way to find the place is via the Katy Freeway. Coming through Downtown takes time to master.

Dawn wanted badly to approach LCC for a job but she could never find the darned place. “I took a course at Leisure Learning Center called “So You Want to Run a Restaurant.” I had a friend who knew of a place that would let me work there and learn the ropes. It turns out that it was Last Concert, and I was like, “Man, that’s the place!,” and they showed me how to get there. Even after I owned the place I’d still get lost sometimes and a nice police officer would lead me in the right direction.” Laughing she said, “I never did tell him I owned the place.”

The red door is still the most telling sign that you have found the right spot. By day, Downtown workers who have caught on to the hole-in-the-wall locale fill the front and back patio tables and dining area. At night, a diverse clientele take over—ranging from nearby loft residents to die-hard hippies. Whether they are stopping by to eat or to grab a strong margarita, they all feel warm and welcome and relaxed as the staff and ambiance are very friendly. It’s easier to find the place at night after dinner as the nightly band can be heard from a few blocks away. There’s much, much more to Last Concert than the food, like a midnight drum circle, jewelry vendors, hula hoopers, fire spinners and all other kinds of fun.

Serving up delicious Tex-Mex with a healthy spin, Dawn has made sure that everyone will find something to their liking on the menu. Their produce is bought fresh daily from a local farmer’s market. Olive oil is used in sautéed dishes and even in the refried the pinto beans. Offering options like wheat tortillas, baked corn chips, vegan enchiladas and soy fajitas and burgers, it is a haven to granola heads in search of a good, cheap meal.

With that out of the way, you’ve got to try my favorite dish, the Beef Tacos Tampicanos. Cubes of the most flavorful fajita beef are served in tortillas filled with guacamole, pico de gallo and cheese. I usually order it with the pico on the side and some limes to squeeze over the whole thing. I’ve tried the regular fajitas by the pound, but there is something about the diced meat that has an extra kick of flavor.

Another favorite is the Deluxe Nachos dish. There is nothing that peeves me more than a restaurant that counts the number of nachos that you will receive. You either get six or 12 chips—who in their right mind would go for that? At Last Concert the small order of deluxe nachos is piled bigger than a football. The large order is a skyscraper of chips, covered in cheese, beef and chicken fajita meat, beans, sour cream, guacamole and jalapenos. Just order it with the baked chips and call it a low-cal dish.

If I tell you that they have the best, most consistently good salsa in town, I’m sure you’ll sniff, “Big whoop, everyone has salsa.” That is, until you hurt yourself on some of the freshest, reddest, hottest sauce in town. My grandfather, Joe, used to make it that way, back before I could handle the heat. He’d throw whole tomatoes from the garden, jalapenos, garlic, cilantro and lime into a blender and pulse it a few times so it was still chunky and recognizable.

With the weather cooling off, there is no better time to enjoy a bowl of LCC’s potato-poblano soup. Chicken broth with chunks of potatoes, spicy poblano peppers, and pico de gallo is topped with cheese and sour cream. The cheese gets all nice and melty and you get to spoon it out and slurp it down.

There are several varieties of enchiladas on the menu. The Apolinar is filled with shredded roast beef and topped with chili gravy. Carol’s Enchiladas are filled with cheese and topped with beef fajita meat. The latter are my favorite as they offer up another source of that awesome beef.

As far as dessert goes, I’ve never been a big flan fan so it took some time before I ever even bothered trying it at LCC. What I found was not your average flan. It was chocolate. And thick. And creamy. Richer and denser than mousse and less jiggly than a custard, it’s hard to describe exactly how terribly divine it is. There is also a pumpkin version that is very good but I just can’t compare the two. They also boast the world’s “richest and creamiest” cinnamon ice cream. Again, I’m not sure how they accomplish this but it is truly the best base texture I’ve ever had. I’m sure it’s not one of the healthy options but cinnamon is a great antioxidant, and helps lower blood pressure. So there.

If you go on a Wednesday night, you’ll see me there with my girlfriends, along with bartenders Sean and Allen, the ever-joyful waiter Jackson, and Travis at the door. Plan on filling up on some great food and sticking around to watch the band play out on the back stage in the sand-filled yard. You’ll want to kick off your shoes and get into the groove. Thank God for dirty politicians and a fiery old Mexican lady who fought the law and won.

Directions:

So it sounds great, and you’d love to check the place out but how do you get there? A motto of Last Concert staffers is that if you’re meant to find the place, you’ll find it. Dawn says, “Yeah, the universe will open up and show the way.” In case the stars don’t align in time for your next meal, here are a few routes. Take my advice and carry this article with you as a guide. You can search for a Google map, but it won’t help you as much as you’d think.

Beginner’s route: From 1-10 head east until you reach the McKee/Nance exit. You come up to a stop sign and take a right and another immediate right. Go down to the end of the block and look to your right. There is a red door. As tradition goes, it may be locked but just knock and someone will open it.

Advanced route: A great landmark is Reliant Stadium. You need to get to Chenevert St. but it stops at the stadium and picks up on the other side. You can get there by going down 59 North and exiting Polk. Then go down to Congress and take a left. Your second right is Chenevert, but there is no sign other than directions pointing you to 59 painted on the ground—so just trust me. Go straight until you see a big ramp leading you to 59. Whatever you do, don’t get on the ramp. Instead you’ll see a sign that says “McKee” that keeps to the right of the freeway entrance. Take that road and it curves around under the overpass. Star of Hope is on the right. Continue until you get to a stop sign and take a right. Pass a power plant, cross over a blue bridge and a railroad track. Just after the tracks is a street on the left called Sterrett. Take that left, then your next right which is William St. Go to the end of the street and take a right on Nance. To your left you’ll see a red door near a patio. That’s the place. Congratulations.

Don’t be discouraged if you get lost. Call them and they’ll guide you to the right spot. Once you find it, people will think you are so cool that you know about somewhere so off the beaten path.

It's Easy Being Green- a vegan brunch at Field of Green's

2008-08-01T10:11:00.000-07:00

by A. Afra

Many brunch spots beckon with their endless breakfast cocktails and house DJs. Others roll out waffle bars and omelet stations filled with delicious, yet not so nutritious delights. Fear not, health nuts, for Field of Green’s offers something different from most other brunch destinations. A vegan brunch buffet with dishes that tastes as good as they are for you.

The buffet line starts with a selection of lettuces and vegetables along with an incredibly good, garlicky vegan ranch dressing. Fat free and dairy free, it is amazingly creamy and deceptively healthy. There is also a spicy couscous that is nutty and exotic.

Under the lid of a chafing dish I find mini tofu scramble quiches, vegan breakfast sausage patties and roasted bell peppers, onions and tomatoes. The quiche had a bit too much chopped celery for my personal texture preference but the taste was great. In the next dish I hit the jackpot. Homemade multigrain pancakes with a simple side of melted butter (vegan of course) and maple syrup. I also top mine with a few strawberries from the fruit section of the buffet. Just because its summertime doesn’t stop the kitchen at Field of Green’s from preparing a huge pot of vegetable lentil soup. The many vegetables and spices in the recipe provide endless layers of flavor and texture, making this one of my favorite soups ever.

Field of Green’s is BYOB which means you can bring a bottle of champagne or a nice Prosecco and ask for a pitcher of Odwalla orange juice to mix it with. They also have incredible sandwiches for lunch every day. The entire menu is vegetarian and much of it vegan as well. We plan on going back to try the lunch menu and will keep Cuizine readers posted on our findings.

Sit, sup, shop- A Three for All at Cova Hand Selected Wines

2008-08-01T10:10:00.000-07:00

By Andrea Afra

5600 Kirby Dr # S1, Houston, 77005 - (713) 838-0700

5555 Washington Ave, Houston, 77007 - (713) 868-3366

Recently highlighted in Food and Wine magazine, Cova has something for the hungry and the thirsty. Owner Monsterville Horton IV has ensured that the menu holds as many surprises as the wine lists. With a background in wine that reaches the moon and back, he certainly is in the right business. His newest venture is a trio of wine bar, store and restaurant that showcase his personal selection of wines in a cozy yet sleek setting.

Lights reminiscent of giant glowing mushrooms grow down from the ceiling enhancing the cavernous feel of the room. Walls lined with wine laden shelves display a profuse selection of top notch labels. While the wine is an obvious feature, the impressive food menu comes to a surprise to new customers.

Lately the banning of foie gras has become a hot topic in Chicago and reality in California. Imagine an underground kitchen doling out black market liver pate to foie gras fanatics. Indulge while you still can on dishes like foie gras with a fluffy hazelnut Belgian waffle topped with a sphere of sage ice cream and a demi glace of maple syrup. Sample a duck and foie gras rillette laced with truffle oil served with wedges of ciabatta bread.

Monsterville was there to help us pair these selections with a sampling of Carpene Prosecco and the Donhoff Riesling. Both were light and refreshing but the Tuley “Old Vines” Red Zinfandel paired with the braised oxtails was a table favorite. The accompanying goat cheese and sage mashed potatoes were deliciously pungent and creamy. Kingslea, our server, was extremely well-versed and helped us figure out which wines were which when they all became mixed up on our table. She professed her love for her work at Cova. “I’ve learned so much and been able to experience so many wines. And the food is great too.”

What it comes down to is finding a few recipes that will compliment any wine on the line up. A slim-bodied Giroud Santenay was light enough to compliment and not mask seared salmon with an equally light thyme beurre blanc. Monsterville boasted that the sweet and meaty trumpet royal mushrooms in the dish are organic and flown in weekly from California.

We ended with two trios of desserts matched with a Mas Blanc Banyuls “Port Style” Red Rimage so sweet that it stood up to the gauntlet of fruity sorbet and chocolate insanity that we faced. Of the three sorbets the lip smackingly tart passion fruit ranked highest next to the blackberry Cabernet. The kiwi-strawberry was a little Capri Sun-esque compared to the others so we just ate it last. Besides, the chocolate mascarpone caviar cake was a meal in itself. It was served with two sides of chocolate creations including a chocolate and pistachio paté and a thin chocolate cylinder filled with a cocoa infused mousse. Chocolate covered rice crispy ‘caviar’ rolled around the plate, the audible texture in lovely contrast to the creamy layers of chocolate cake.

On our way out we searched for Monsterville to thank him but he had already taken off to the other Cova location on Washington Avenue. There, Tuesday nights are swinging with a live Jazz band.

The next time someone suggests getting a glass of wine I suggest Cova for a full wining and dining experience. It is the perfect place for two or ten with a wonderful menu designed with every taste in mind.

A Crêpe Caper-Coco’s Crêpes and Coffee

2008-08-01T10:04:00.000-07:00

By Andrea Afra

Crêpes can take many forms, depending where in the world you are. While they are predominately consumed across Europe, people all over the globe have adapted the simple recipe to meet their tastes. In France they are thin round pancakes that haven’t risen, and are filled and topped with a variety of ingredients. In England, crêpes are known as pancakes, not to be confused with America’s beloved fluffy flapjacks. Traditionally, crêpes are made with white-wheat flour if the filling is sweet, and buckwheat flour in the savory version, which is called a galette.

In our town there are several places to find crêpes but only one place offers them up as breakfast, lunch, dinner, or a late night snack. The patio at Coco’s is a prime location for people watching. It spreads out onto the sidewalks of Midtown’s main hub at the corner of Gray and Helena Street. Open for a year and a half now, the crêperie and coffee house was started by restaurateur Youssef Nafaa, the owner of Mia Bella Trattoria, Saffron, and Cava Bistro. In fact, Mia Bella has had a great herb crêpe on their menu for a while, which may have been a foreshadowing of things to come. Coco’s crêpes, however, are a small fraction of the price of Mia Bella’s $12 (but well worth it) crêpe.

Coco’s has a cozy sitting area and the walls are hung with local artists’ works currently in shades of vibrant blue. It gives a perfect view of your crêpes being prepared on the hot iron griddle. You can watch as a ladle of batter is poured onto the plate and quickly spread in a thin layer. The cook intently watches for the precise moment to turn the crêpe. He deftly uses a long, thin spatula to lift under the right side of the crêpe while giving a slight twist to partially twirl the dough around the utensil. A quick flip of the wrist and the crêpe is inverted. It is then given a few more seconds to finish cooking while any bubbles that may try to form are smacked back down by the spatula.

Now, any number of things can happen. It can be filled with filled with peaches and topped with homemade vanilla gelato. It can be smeared with Nutella and finished with a generous dollop of whipped cream. We tried the Coco’s crêpe filled with bananas, strawberries, caramel, and chocolate and topped with whipped cream and more fruit. It was a massive concoction—the hot melted chocolate with the contrast of cold slices of bananas was the best part. A bite of strawberry added the right sour note here and there, an occasional relief from the sweet mire. The price was a relief too, at only $4. For $3.50 you can try the banana, peanut butter and jelly crêpe or spring an extra buck for a hedonistic raspberry crêpe with strawberries, bananas, and white chocolate mousse.

The dessert menu is balanced with a selection of savory crêpes, with a few set dishes and the option to create your own crêpe. With all of the choices, we just asked for the most popular which turned out to be the first one listed on the menu. Our crêpe was prepared before us over the hot plate and filled with chicken, spinach, mushrooms, and Mozzarella cheese, then folded up and covered with two pestos, one of wild mushrooms, and the other a roasted red pepper pesto. Both were good but the red pepper version was lick-it-off-the-plate good. It amplified each bite of spinach melded with the gooey cheese and mushrooms. Next time I’ll ask to add some of the caramelized onions to the mix. Or maybe I’ll skip straight to the crêpe with strawberries, almonds, and brie—oh my.

Coco’s is also a hotspot for coffee and offers basics like espresso and cappuccino as well as drinks like the caramel crisp, a hot coffee with a rich caramel flavor. With the summer heat coming our way they have a house specialty drink called a CoCoccino, which is sure to cool you off and still rev you up. Coffee is blended with any of the in-house gelatos. My friend tried the mocha version topped with whipped cream and it was so good and creamy that we polished it off and ordered another.

If you’re not in the mood for coffee (for some inane reason) you can opt for a smoothie that is blended with fruit and gelato. Try the CoCo LoCo with pineapple, bananas, coconut gelato and orange juice. You can even add soy, protein powder, or Power Fuel to justify the addition of gelato.

The menu goes on to offer paninis like the grilled chicken with cilantro pesto, tomato basil bisque, and salads. In a successfully ambitious attempt to make the most of the small kitchen and the great location, Coco’s is a perfect little spot to chew, chug and chat the day away.

Max's Wine Dive

2008-08-01T10:00:00.000-07:00

Max’s Wine Dive is open for business

by Andrea Afra

Their motto: ‘Fried chicken and champagne after midnight…why the hell not?’ The mission: Stick to your ribs food that is elegant yet casual at the same time, unassuming surroundings that still murmur class, and a wine list to keep you busy for a while. Max’s Wine Dive is the newest venture to hit the thriving strip along Washington Avenue, a new concept by the founders of the very successful Tasting Room wine cafe. After a long awaited opening, the grill is lit and the corks are popping, as are the customers that have supped and sipped at the new neighborhood dive. The hefty portions of food are outweighed only by the selection of wine, and together they create a hedonistic, downhome culinary affair.

I arrived with friends to Max’s valet attended parking lot, which was near its capacity. One wall is lined with, purposely weathered, oversized, leather booths that are all occupied. There are a few tables at the back of the restaurant and plenty of chairs at the room-lengthed bar. The bar is a show in itself, where patrons face the kitchen and watch the antics of the cooks who are hard at work but having a blast. It had only been a week since the grand opening but the place was bumping. The most popular dishes coming out of the kitchen were the Kobe beef burgers, followed by the aforementioned fried chicken, and their veal ‘haute’ dogs topped with venison chili and fried onions.

We started with the pancakes and eggs, which were really three buckwheat blinis topped with some crème fraiche, a fried quail egg and a dabble of Tsar Nicoulai American Sevruga caviar. The picturesque arrangment was even tastier than it looked. The briny cavier set off the mini yolk which seeped wonderfully into the fluffy pancake.

Chef Jonathan loves using just a touch of habanero to set off a dish which is what set the tuna tartare on a fried wonton aflame. Shoestringed cucumber, ginger and lime juice played nicely with the yellowfin tuna. The flavors were balanced to hit all the right spots on the palate.

Chef JJ is also very proud of his ‘three big balls’ as he rightfully should be. Big ol’ balls of beef and lamb are hand formed and packed with big flavors and dressed in San Marzano tomato sauce. It’s all about raw element in Chef JJ’s kitchen and he doesn’t skimp on quality. For example, it isn’t everyday that you run across something like the Pantalero Sardenian goat cheese that accompanies the meatballs. It is mild, and somewhat akin to the flavor of buffalo mozzarella, yet has a little chew to it before it gives. Topped with a peppery bouquet of micro arugula, you’ll see why these are some very special balls.

I mosied over to the jukebox while waiting for our next dish. Full of Texas faves, the selections ranged from tunes from folks like Johnny Cash, Janis Joplin, and Merle Haggard. It seems the albums within were selected to represent the south as well as the menu choices do.

The formula here at Max’s is comfort food made fabulous. The pot roast was made from Kobe beef cheek that had been braised into a tender oblivion with shitake mushrooms. We were sipping on Bussola Valopicella that went well with most of the food but especially with the roast. The flavors flattered each other so well, I almost told them to get a room. Really, they were a great pair.

Now, if you like gnocchi, you need to try Max’s take on the Italian dumplings made with sweet potato. Swimming in a porcini mushroom broth herbed with thyme, and sauteed shitake and porcini mushrooms, the ‘dumplins’ comfort and wow at the same time. The allspice in the recipe was accented beautifully by the valopicella, which helped carry the flavor through all of the rest.

Of course we couldn’t leave without trying the fried chicken. Unabashedly described on the menu as ‘buttermilk soaked and deep fat fried’ this bird was strutting all kinds of goodness. With a hit of the house jalapeno rub and served with sweet potato mash and steamed greens, I felt right at home licking my fingers clean. You can even order the wing-cakes, which pile three hot fried chicken wings on a soft ginger pancake with butter and maple syrup.

Even the desserts at Max’s are not to be taken lightly. The ‘big ass brownie’ refers to the size of both the dessert and your derriere after a few too many visits. Fern’s “BMF” Bread Pudding is another way to indulge at the end of the meal. Topped with Tawny port caramel and vanilla ice cream, don’t ask what the “BMF” stands for until you’ve had your first bite. If you still don’t know after that, you’ve had too much wine or you’ve lost your tongue somewhere along the way.

No other place in town emphasizes both the wine and the food in such a manner as Max’s Wine Dive. While many will argue that the place too nice to be called a true dive, few will be able to resist the homestyle extravagance and remarkable wine.

A Night in Nepal: ‘Inspirations from Nepal’ dinner at Ashiana Indian Restaurant

2008-08-01T09:59:00.000-07:00

By Andrea Afra

I knew I was in for a treat when I read the words ‘jackfruit’ and ‘100 year old vine Shiraz’ printed on my menu. I was at an ‘Inspirations from Nepal’ wine dinner being held at Ashiana, an Indian restaurant on the west side of town. The seven course trek was choreographed and prepared by the restaurant’s Chef Dipak Aryal, who is of Nepali descent. There are only a handful of Nepali restaurants in the US and I knew that this was as close as I would get to the real thing for a long time. Each course was paired with a suitable wine with its own story to tell.

Ashiana owner Latika Bathija and manager Sanjay Shrestha greeted the guests as they entered the reception for the dinner. I took my mother-in-law, Amal, as she has incredible taste in food and fashion alike yet I’d never seen her properly introduced to wine. During the reception we were offered Chyau Ko Sekuwa- a dish of marinated grilled button mushrooms- and Badam Sandheko, which is a dish of spicy roasted peanuts. A glass of 2003 Marcato Recioto di Soave Spumante, made from 100% Garganega grapes, made a fun starter to what would be a lighthearted and informative meal and went well with the heat of the nuts.

Once all of the guests had arrived we were seated by eights at large round tables. We happened to sit at the table with the evening’s wine guide, Bruce Woods, so we were lucky to be able to have extra time to ask him questions.

Latika introduced herself and the staff and proceeded to tell us about how Nepal was virtually a secret until the 1950s and soon became famous thanks to the hippies who traveled there for ‘enlightenment’. Swathed in mystery and religion, Nepal has a rich history to tell. With its many tribes, each with their own cuisine, it is interesting to taste the variations imparted by the terrain in which they inhabit.

Our first course was a traditional ‘Sherpa’ soup, called Thukpa, very similar to the American chicken noodle soup. Thin egg noodles in chicken stock with vegetables were set before us in our own covered soup terrine. Simple and soothing, this soup made the perfect comfort food. And for a great comfort wine, which I find many of them to be, this course was paired with a glass of Nasiakos Moschofilero, 2004. Dulcetly crisp and elegant, the Moschofilero is one of the clearest white wines even though it is made from a Rose colored grape.

The second course was called ‘Khasi Ko Momo”, which is Nepalese dumplings filled with minced goat meat and spices. It was accompanied by two aromatic sauces. The Roasted Sesame Chutney is reminiscent of tahini and the Timur Achar is a delicious red pepper and tomato puree not unlike a good salsa. Hints of ginger, cumin and cilantro filled the dumplings and the achar. A well balanced Cooper Mountain Reserve Pinot Noir was the wine of the second course. Do you know what biodynamic farming is? I didn’t. I looked it up at Biodynamics.com and it explained how it is the oldest form of organic agriculture coupled with spiritual and holistic practices. Bruce explained was that not only are Cooper Mountain vineyards grown organically but in a manner so as that the rhythms of the universe are used as guides to production. Needless to say the Pinot Noir’s cooling dark plum tones went well with the Himalayan spices.

For the third course we enjoyed a palate cleansing Nimbu Ka Sherbert, lime sorbet. Sweet and sour and refreshingly good, the kid in me loved the ‘dessert break’ between courses. This and lemonade are served to the trekkers of the rugged Himalayan Mountains.

Next up was the Macha Tareko, the Thakali tribe’s version of fried fish. Chef Aryal used lightly breaded freshwater tilapia in this recipe as the Thakali people use a lot of lake and river fish. With it came steamed green beans, rice and the much anticipated jackfruit. I liken it to sautéed artichoke heart with more fiber yet still very tender. Jackfruit has both a sweet and ‘dry’ version that is used as a fruit and a vegetable respectively. This vegetable version would be a great addition to almost any dish, be it steak, fish or pasta. Served with spicy tomato chutney, most cleared their plates down to the banana leave mat the food was served on. A bright Cooper Mountain Chardonnay, the course’s wine, was thoughtfully easy on the oak, as I tend to grimace when a barrel comes through too strong.

The fifth and final course before dessert was a simple dish of Newari style Lamb tenderloin served on a bed of crispy rice. This dish is akin to a middle-eastern kefte, hand-formed ground beef with parsley and cumin. The rice served was very interesting. I tasted like lightly toasted panko crumbs. Dry and crisp, it definitely was a great new version of rice I hadn’t had before.

The wine with this course was what we had all been waiting for, a Shiraz from a one hundred year old vine, cultivated in Adelaide, Australia by Heath Vineyards. This wine is one of the best I’ve had. I can still taste it. Thick as blood and full of confidant blackberry and plum it’s like drinking straight from the vine. Due to its age only a few bunches of grapes grow per vine. This causes the liquid to become more concentrated, giving it a luscious and full body. I wrote to Heath Wines, which is situated on an old dairy farm in the Adelaide Hills and owned by former racecar driver Alan Heath. I just had to tell them how much I loved the Shiraz. Though the production is limited you can still find this selection with a little research.

We reached the end of our trek when dessert arrived. A thick pudding of coconut milk and dates, the rich and creamy Kurauni is a wonderful treat. Usually it is made from a type of sweetened-condensed buffalo milk as the base. It was addictingly good even though I was already full to the brim. I took small bites and sipped hot Chai tea to wash it down.

All in all, I learned a lot about the food and culture of Nepal. The food is similar to middle-eastern and Indian cuisine but has its own unique qualities unlike any others that I have had. I was honored to get to try some traditional dishes prepared by a native Nepali chef. I would have enjoyed the dinner just as much without the wine but it definitely made the night even more memorable. It infused a rosy shade into my mother-in-law’s cheeks and loosened our lips as wine usually does. And we both agree that we certainly never will forget that Shiraz.

12610 Briar Forest Dr, Houston, 77077 - (281) 679-5555

All You Can Eat Sushi (But don’t waste the rice!)- Kirin Sushi Buffet (closed :( )

2008-08-01T09:58:00.000-07:00

By Andrea Afra

If you’ve ever been to Vegas you know how popular sushi buffets are and how good they can be. With an endless array of items from noodles and soup to rolls and nigiri, a good buffet will always keep you coming back for two reasons- because there was too much to choose from and you were too full to try it all, and you know that there will always be something new to sample.

Upon arriving to Kirin One my date and I were seated and greeted in the Japanese tradition with two oshibori. We used the hot, moist towels to refresh our hands and face before the meal. Nestled in a shopping center at the southwest corner of Westheimer and Fountainview Drive, Kirin One is a family operated business, ran by a mother and son team along with a few other staff. A large fish tank draws your attention across the restaurant but not before you see the enormous buffet. We sat in a booth and ordered two Kirin Ichiban beers, a great, dry brew that complements seafood well. Positioning ourselves at the starting line of the buffet we stood agog at the many different items on the line. We found that there were several non-sushi items that seemed interesting enough to give a go. I made a small plate of the chilled items- some noodles, a few spears of asparagus, tofu cubes with a Ponzu like sauce and mussels. From the hot appetizer section a red swirl caught my eye from atop an egg dish, to pretty to pass up. A skewer of fried Red Snapper seemed like a sure hit so I took one of those as well. Sitting down to sample my finds I examined what I initially thought were three types of noodles but turned out to be soba noodles, calamari thinly julienned in spicy red sauce, and strips of dried tofu. The purplish soba, or buckwheat, noodles have very little flavor on their own and usually are served in the dish zaru soba. Mike, the owner, showed me how his mom eats the cold soba noodles with a soya based dipping sauce (tsuyu) and spiced with a bit of wasabi. It wasn’t that exciting, especially in comparison to the rest of the meal but interesting to know. The calamari ‘noodles’ were great, an awesome carb-free alternative to pasta. The dried tofu strips are soaked to rehydrate and are also used as a pasta-like substitute.

The egg dish, called Chawan Mushi, is a great take on a cross between a crustless quiche and a casserole. Its custard-like texture comes from the steaming method used to cook it. The other main ingredients are shitake mushrooms, spinach and some sake for a special kick. I never would have thought that eggs and sake would make nice with each other but it really enhances the flavor of the dish. A thin slice of fish cake tops each portion of the dish with a customary red swirl in the center.

We ordered the snow crab legs, as they can be served hot with a side of melted garlicky butter. However, the sweet and salty meat within tastes buttery enough without dipping it in the sauce. It is great to see snow crab on a buffet line- I could eat it all day then eat some more at night. I personally like it better than lump crab.

Now, the moment you’ve all been waiting for- the sushi. I tried hard to sample everything but I failed. I was in heaven when the waiter brought a pretty plate of escolar, a white tuna, if you will, that is really gaining popularity in the southern sushi scene. We were also brought a dish of Unagi, freshwater eel, served hot from the kitchen so as to be at its peak when it reaches the customer. The sweet sauce didn’t mask the flavor of the eel and we could taste the clean water that it once imbibed. I love being able to discern the body of water that a fish once lived in. To me this assures purity and freshness and infuses the fish with flavor the same way an oak barrel does to wine.

I had my first tako nigiri, octopus- the sushi equivalent to jerky. Its mild taste is great but it really needs a good chewing to break it down. And the curly ridges and beautiful color make for a great presentation.

The seaweed salad is served in a small seaweed roll, not unlike the salmon roe and creamy scallops. Heavy hand rolls (made fresh for you) are stuffed to the brim with spicy tuna and crunchy soft shell crab.

Don’t miss the sashimi boats piled high with tuna, salmon, escolar, squid, giant clam and whatever else the chef deems worthy of a ride on the vessel. The tuna is very fresh as well as the salmon. I didn’t have room left for the squid or clam and I am a little bummed but there is always next time. The dessert selection is definitely a few cuts about other buffets, offering meringue pies, an assortment of cookies and fruit and the infamous grass jelly, which I finally got to try. It tastes the way it sounds. Go with the chocolate pie. Or nothing if you’ve maxed out your stomach’s capacity.

Lunch is around twelve bucks and the dinner price is twenty but I guarantee that you will get well more than your money’s worth. Be forewarned- the table tents bear a strict warning not to waste the sushi rice. If you are caught with any left on your plate, I’d hate to be you. Wasting rice is a big taboo in any Japanese restaurant and will have you facing penalties of up to $8.95. I love it! It’s like mom is right next to you going, “Clear your plate! There are starving children in the world who would love those four grains of rice!” I would think that they’d much rather have the sushi.

5901 Westheimer Rd # U, Houston, 77057 - (713) 532-4888

Me Love Oolong Time- Te' House of Tea

2008-08-01T09:56:00.000-07:00

By Andrea Afra

While passing through my old neighborhood a few months back I was amazed to see the funky old washateria had been transformed into a nice looking store front. Its exterior was repainted in shades of brown, foreshadowing the natural theme within. It was a new teahouse, Té House of Tea. It took me a little while but I finally was able to return pay a visit.

Light pours in through large windows creating a clean and airy vibe inside. The attention to comfort and detail is apparent in everything from the chocolate toned overstuffed couches and chairs down to the honey swizzle sticks patrons can use to sweeten their beverages. The calming effect is immediate and the staff is friendly and informed. Retail items like Japanese tea sets, white tea perfumes and of course a large variety of loose leaf teas are available for purchase. If you are looking for a unique gift for someone special this is a charming little place to search.

Behind the counter large silver cans are labeled with the exotic names of the tea leaves they contain like Oothu, Furry Tip, and Iron Goddess of Mercy. Iron Goddess was once reserved for members of the Imperial court but is now one of the most popular teas in China. I never realized how vast the varieties of teas are. White, green, black, and oolong are just a few and there are many types of each of these. White tea is made from the fresh picked leaves therefore the cost is higher due to the need for expediency and lack of shelf life. Some white teas can cost upwards of seven hundred dollars a pound! Black tea is made of fermented leaves and green tea falls somewhere in between the two. Luckily, Connie Lacobie, a native of Hong Kong, and Alyson Bell, of Ireland, have come up with a way to showcase the best and most affordable selections of fresh brewed teas.

And what is a proper cup of tea without a proper English crumpet? The food at Té is light and perfectly designed to be paired with any drink that you should choose. The breakfast menu features scones, European muesli, and crepes to name a few. For lunch a tempting selection of panini, baguettes, salads and quiche are available. Even the desserts are made in house by my new best friend (though she doesn’t know me) Tina Parent. I had her Acapulco cake, a gorgeous layered personal sized masterpiece with hints of orange and a tear jerking chocolate mousse filling. With it I had the Yin Yang, a perfect balance of coffee and black tea with milk over ice.

I also tasted a few things that I had never tried before. On the menu is a dish called ‘Ploughman’s Lunch’. Ploughman’s Pickle is a weird British condiment of sorts. It took me some time to figure out that it wasn’t a special kind of pickled cucumber. The pickle was an assortment of vegetables made into what appeared to be a savory jelly. In it diced carrots, cauliflower, rutabaga and onions are marinated in everything from malt vinegar and molasses to dates and apples. It is smeared on buttered bread and served with brie, cheddar, tomato and boiled egg wedges atop a bed of salad. I piled it up a bit of everything on the bread and tried to force it all in my mouth. While I wasn’t too successful, what I did manage to fit in was really good.

The tofu version of the Asian salad combines simple ingredients like cabbage, crispy ramen noodles and sesame seeds to make a light meal nutritious enough to tide one over until the next meal or the next course.

The staff at Té is young and innovative which adds a great touch to the atmosphere and the kitchen creations. I enjoyed a quiche made by a young and strapping lad by the name of John who also works behind the counter. Another worker, Alex Squier, has been granted wall space for his series of prints. A few simple layers in bold colors reveal his talent. With themes from music to skateboarding the pieces are both tasteful and fun.

When I was offered to taste the fruit salad I was not prepared for what was soon placed before me. Served in a tall parfait glass the fruit salad contained several exotic ingredients like agar, mung beans, lychee and coconut gel. Coconut milk is poured over the top creating a creamy balance that ties it all together. Agar is made from seaweed and becomes gelatinous when dissolved in hot water. Seaweed has been in the news lately regarding its medicinal benefits. Beans are a popular dessert ingredient in parts of Asia, commonly found in ice cream. Mung beans are much like lentils in texture and while I could have done without them they do add heft and character to the fruit salad. Lychees have the best texture, soft yet strangely chewy with a delicious berry-grape flavor. Coconut gel cubes are also common among popular Asian desserts such as in the Boba ‘bubble’ tea drinks offered all over town.

I finished this marathon meal with a cup of Monkey Picked Oolong tea. The name is from a legend that says Buddhist monks would train monkeys to harvest the youngest leaves from hard to reach places. Today the term “Monkey Picked” refers to the highest quality of oolong available. Made from the youngest tea leaves, this tea can be used for multiple infusions.

Té House of Tea uses only Fair Trade tea and provides a lovely ambiance to enjoy it in. It’s perfect for you Café Brasilites who feel like trying something new be it baked or brewed.

Tuesday-Thursday 9am - 10pm
Friday and Saturday 9am-midnight
Sunday 10am-8pm
Closed Mondays
Live music and open mic on Fridays and Saturdays

1927 Fairview St.
Houston, TX 77019

(713) 522-8868

www.tehouseoftea.com

Dinner and a Light Show- Zula's

2008-08-01T09:54:00.001-07:00

By Andrea Afra

705 Main St # B, Houston, 77002 - (713) 227-7052

‘Wow, it looks like a laser tag game room’.

‘How would you describe those lights? They look like giant space flowers to me.’

Our table grasped for the words to describe the interior of the dining room of Zula. Ceiling high lamps resembling kaleidoscopic cyber-torches lined the room. The walls are paneled in oversized mirrors angled to reveal the whole room no matter where one is seated. Large plush booths swallow you in comfort behind white linen table cloths. The concept is a balance of fine dining a la video arcade.

While the décor is distractingly futuristic, the food seems almost too focused for the surroundings. You would expect more adventurous dishes to come from the kitchen but Executive Chef Jason Kerr’s approach to flavor over fashion tames the whole experience. His mild manner belies his history as an Austinite, where he honed his skills at restaurants like the Four Seasons and Café Josie. He moved to Houston to work at restaurants like the Brownstone, 43 Brasserie, Boulevard Bistro, and Quattro before landing the gig at Zula. Opened by Chef Lance Feagan of the more recent Glass Wall restaurant.

Two friends and I were greeted by wine steward Todd Summerlin who inquired of our tastes. We all agreed that we loved reds so he produced an affordable bottle called The Jibe, an ’05 Marlborough Pinot Noir out of New Zealand. It paired well with each dish we were about to encounter.

Looking into one of the giant mirrors, we could see our appetizers approaching. Three lovely dishes were set before us, the first of which was called Boulevard Sashimi, Crimson tuna and succulent salmon were rolled together with nori and oh-so-lightly tempura fried. It sat in a sauce puddle of sweet red chili and soy sauce. Tension rose as we neared the last bite but we were soon distracted by the other two appetizers. Someone moved in for the kill and finished the plate while we sampled the ‘packed with crab cake’. The name referred to the fact that the jumbo lump crab meat involved outweighed the other ingredients at least ten to one. The chef described it as having a little panko, a little mayo, some green onions and ‘that’s about it’. He said that he ate one at least every other day and it’s one of their best sellers. It came with a sauce of horseradish aïoli which was delicious but not necessary. No, I think I preferred the crab cake naked, with just its thin, crisp, golden exterior to hold back the mouthfuls of white meat within.

Our third pre-dinner tryst was barbecued quail with a red pepper coulis called rojo picato and sprinkled with cotija, a dry white Mexican cheese similar to feta. It was served with an avocado potato salad flecked with cilantro. Though paltry in size, the little bird had just as much, if not more, flavor than its clucking cousin ever could. The potato salad really stole center plate. Creamy yet pungent, it has ruined regular potato salad for me forever. I will always yearn for Zula’s version with its exotic ring of cilantro and the anticipation of a bite of avocado to contrast with the starchy potatoes.

With the first course out of the way, we sat back in awe of the surroundings again, mesmerized by the intergalactic light show around us. Even the salt and pepper shaker set on each table were psychedelic, changing colors every few seconds. Yes, I repeat, the condiments glow.

Again we spotted our dishes arriving from afar by means of the suspended looking-glasses. A nice selection of air, land, and sea were selected in the duck, veal, and tuna dishes presented to us. Each were commendable in their own way and, though I was torn between the tuna and the duck.

The tuna filet was huge, easily two inches thick and if I had to guess, weighed at least 12 ounces. Lightly seasoned with a ginger tamarind sauce, it was served on a bed of green tea soba noodles tossed with edamame, shitake mushrooms, a little wasabi and other Asian infused flavors. The buckwheat noodles’ texture was wonderful with and between bites of the brilliant red tuna, which had been conservatively seared. It definitely tasted as good as it looked.

The duck dish was laudable due mostly to the fabulous ‘vanilla lacquer’ created by Chef Kerr. A reduction of vanilla, truffle oil and balsamic vinegar produced the most exquisitely sensual flavor, heady yet serene, and really showcased the moist fowl. Accompanying the dish were raviolis filled with artichoke, duck confit and mascarpone cheese. I’m not sure if you should ‘sop up’ anything containing truffle but we cleaned the plate with the bread and even a finger or two. Shhh. You would have too.

Our second dish was a veal chop regally balanced atop a throne of savory bread pudding with veal demi-glace. Do you see a running theme that Zula adheres to? A great cut of meat, a fantastic sauce and a delicious consort on the side is their formula for success. The chop was juicy and tender but we were all quite impressed by the bread pudding that was studded with sweet fresh figs and Roquefort cheese. We each agreed that the pudding was one of the highlights of the evening.

Knowing that dessert at Zula is made at Zula by the executive chef, made it taste even better. We tried three selections, the first a coconut key lime pie with an amazingly stiff meringue which had been browned with a cooking torch, I’m assuming. Sweet and thick, it was a milder version of the more tart key lime confection that I prefer, however I enjoyed every dulcet bite. An Oreo cheesecake was next in line. I love when cheesecake actually has a slightly cakey texture, instead of just pure cream. This was made just right with that top layer of browned love that any true cheesecake should bear. I don’t care much for Oreos, but I don’t dislike them. I would just rather have real chocolate in my dessert so I had my eye on the chocolate boulder that was next to be tasted. Our sommelier offered a nice Italian dessert wine to enjoy with the chocolate. It was called Rosa Royale and unlike most dessert wines, it was carbonated and cut nicely through the richness of the chocolate cake. A five inch wedge of chocolate mousse cake, it sat dauntingly large on the plate. I tried not to laugh at how ridiculously good it was, each bite fulfilling a months worth of cocoa cravings. Sadly, I couldn’t handle more than a few bites after everything we’d eaten previously.

Incredible service coupled with the dreamlike atmosphere and big flavors made for an extraordinary evening. I suggest it for anyone who appreciates fine dining and a good flashback here and there.

A pocketful of goodies- Marine’s Empanadas Delicias

2008-08-01T09:52:00.000-07:00

by Andrea Afra

When most people think of empanadas, the apple and pineapple Mexican pastry versions are usually what comes to mind. Yet there is a world of different fillings and doughs out there and a great place to begin trying them is at Marine’s Empanadas Delicias. Several customers, Colombian natives, told me that these are the best empanadas in the city. The menu lists nearly fifty varieties of empanadas categorized under beef, chicken, cheese, vegetable, fruit, special, and double-sized and most just over two dollars a pop.

The word ‘empanada’ is derived from the Spanish past tense ‘empanar’, which means to cover with bread. Marine’s makes two types of empanadas, Colombian and Argentinian. In Colombia the dough of the empanadas is made from corn meal while the Argentinian version is made from white flour. Each is formed into circles and filled with different ingredients then folded up like a half moon. The edges are crimped on the Argentinian style and simple pinched close on the smaller Colombian type. Served with the savory dishes is a requisite bowl of chimichurri sauce made from chopped parsley, garlic, dried oregano, onion, paprika and a dash of vinegar.

While Marine’s serves traditional Colombian fare, you’ll find that they have reached out to a wide audience with empanadas such as the Hippie, with salami, fried onions, and raisins. There also is the fugazzaetta, with gooey fresh mozzarella and fried onions. On my first trip I tried the Hot Tia Maria with stewed meat, jalapeno, tomatoes and onions. The combination of ingredients was simple yet warming and popped with flavor. I also sampled the Chuck Wagon, filled with chopped sirloin and mushrooms in a red wine sauce. It’s counterpart, the chicken reina, substitutes chicken and white wine and both were exceptionally good. The Viva Mexico is simply mozzarella and poblanos stuffed into the pocket yet the oil from the peppers melds beautiful to each cheesey bite.

A section of the menu called ‘antojitos Colombianas’, or Colombian favorites, provides the dishes native to Colombian tongues. Chicharons are what we Southerners know as pork cracklins. It is a snack food of sorts. They also have tamales prepared in banana leaves, morcilla, which is blood sausage, and chorizo, of course. Under ‘Platos Tipicos Colombianas’ you’ll find the plate meals like the bandeja paisa with grilled beef, rice, pork skin, a corn patty, plantains, and a fried egg. Now that’s a hearty meal. Other dishes such as the arroz con pollo and the daily lunch specials provide an affordable, freshly made repast.

Marine’s also sells baked goods made fresh daily. One of the best sellers, pandebono, is a bread roll made with both yuca and wheat flour blended with cheese. Bunelos, pan alinado, and pastel tres leches

are just a few of many options to satiate your bready urges.

The owner of Marine’s, Yiredt Delgado, opened the place seventeen years ago under a partner. She then bought it six months later and has ran the place every since. The kitchen is her pride and she boasts that they use fresh ingredients everyday and that nothing is frozen or from cans. Her staff is loyal, most have worked there from the beginning and that means consistancy. She talks about her childhood when her mother would have fresh fruit smoothies ready for the children when they walked through the door after school. “We didn’t have soft drinks and such, just fresh fruit smoothies.” And they too are a very popular item at the restaurant. Exotic juices like guanabana and curaba are blended with ice and water or milk. For three dollars, it is a great deal for something so natural and delicious. The Monkey Juice, a blend of banana, coconut, and pineapple juice outranks chain smoothie stores any day.

Marine’s has been around for nearly two decades and surely they’ll be around for two more. The next time you’re in the mood for a casual meal, or even a great idea for party snacks, Marine’s is waiting for you with her pockets full of hidden surprises.

Marines Empanadas Delicias

3227 Hillcroft St @ Richmond Ave.

Phone 713-789-2950

Open Monday-Saturday 8am-9pm, Sunday 8am-6pm

Star Fish- Kubo's Knows How to Roll

2008-08-01T09:50:00.000-07:00

by Andrea Afra

When you hear more about a sushi restaurant’s décor than you do the food, sadly, it usually means the menu has been put on the back burner. It also means that the recipes will be tailored more for the average American scenester and less for the raw ‘fishionado’. I will admit that I do enjoy the deep fried rolls that dominate many Japanese restaurants. They’re usually tasty and beautifully arranged. But no matter how lovely a roll is to behold, beauty is only skin deep. I want to see slivers of skillfully sliced, brilliantly colored fish, untouched by heat and shining a capella.

Kubo’s has earned a great reputation through the high quality and impeccablely prepared fish it serves. Ex-oil tycoon turned restaurateur Yoichi Ueno opened Kubo’s back in 2001 with his friend Hajimi Kubokawa. Hajimi “Kubo” Kubokawa has since left the restaurant but he entrusted his right hand man, now Executive Chef Manabu "Hori" Horiuchi, to take over. Hori and Sous Chef Yu Suzuki dominate the sushi preparation with precision and flair. They each graduated from the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka, the Japanese equivalent of The Culinary Institute of America. Their talent coupled with Ueno’s demand for freshness is what made renowned culinary writer John Mariani select it as one of the States’ top eight sushi spots. Something unheard of in other businesses, Mr. Ueno has been known to refuse to open the doors of the restaurant if the fish of the day doesn’t meet his stringent standards.

Kubo’s inviting casual ambiance and friendly staff, make it a great place to impress your sushi-wise clients as well as a group of friends. We’ve only had one server before who seemed new to Kubo and was still learning the menu and a bit forgetful but other than that everyone is very knowledgable. We took our friends, a chef-couple, to experience what we have known for years. During my first visit to Kubo’s a few years ago, I first cut my sushi-teeth on their buttery yellowtail tuna. Being that they were so highly esteemed for cleanliness and technique, it set my standards high from the beginning.

To start, we ordered a few rounds of sake from a cold sampler selection to go with our meal. What followed was a surfeit of sushi and savory hot dishes that demonstrated the cooks’ adroitness. Noticing that there were a several seasonal specials listed on our table tent, we decided to sample a few. Most notable were the Kobe beef tartare and and the Royal Hamachi roll. Accented simply with a bit of green onion, the tartare was much richer than other versions and quite possibly the best I’ve had. The hamachi roll was a favorite of the table. Spicy tuna, unagi, and fried shrimp are rolled in rice and topped with fresh young yellowtail, a dime of fresh jalapeno, and kissed with yuzu juice. Yuzu is a citrus fruit, similar in apperance to a yellow grapefruit but leaning more towards the taste of a tangerine. Just enough is added to the rice to complement the dish without making it the most forward component. The best dishes at Kubo’s are the ones where the fish is not upstaged by any other ingredient.

We also ordered the opulent signature appetizer of fried lobster in truffle oil sauce. While it was tasty, I was a little daunted by the salty, battered lobster after tasting the subtler flavors of some of the other dishes. While it would make a great choice if you plan on ordering from the hot menu, I would suggest not ordering this dish to accompany your sushi, so as not to overstimulate your tastebuds.

Kubo’s does have some fancy rolls but they manage to balance appearance with substance quite nicely. For eye appeal, the ‘Super Kubo’s Roll’ is a jaw-dropper. Ample amounts of fresh salmon, three shades of tobiko, unagi, avocado, and fried shrimp are adeptly brought together to create one of my all time favorite rolls. The Spider Rainbow roll holds soft shell crab, topped with colorful salmon, tuna, a white fish, asparagus, and avocado. Each roll combines succulent fresh fish with the crunch of a fried treat within. By the way, don’t waste the soy sauce by filling up your little bowl and the customary dollop of wasabi. You won’t be needing it. I watched all of our bowls and sure enough we hardly touched the stuff. The rice and food are so flavorful that after the first bite, you don’t want to have any stops between the plate and your next mouthful.

This pertains especially to the Heights roll. Again, it uses a bit of the well-received yuzu juice, some pungent green onion, a crisp shard of the tangy Japanese pickle takuan, and a center of tender yellowtail. It is then rolled in black tobiko and presently otherwise unadorned. The contrast of black speckles on the clean white background was a visual treat.

The only entrée from the hot menu that we ordered was the seared peppercorn tuna sashimi. A massive serving of thick ruby red tuna slices were edged with a quarter inch sear and amply flecked with coarsely ground black and white peppercorns. It was served on rice with a whole spear of tempura fried asparagus and crowned with what looked to be a fried gourd leaf. The fish was perfectly cooked, but some people may be put off by the amount and size of the pepper grounds. I personally prefer it just like that so I was quite happy with the dish on the whole. Just as a side note, that fried leaf didn’t taste like much of anything, not that it was supposed to. It looked great, which was the point.

With all abandon we ordered a couple of desserts, sherbert and Monkeys Gone Mad. The sherbert was one scoop each of raspberry and yuzu flavored. The raspberry was actually more tart than the yuzu but the two went well together. The Monkeys Gone Mad is a whole banana, unpeeled and unbattered, but deep fried until the center is molten hot. It is then sliced open and exposed and topped with vanilla ice cream, hot fudge, and almond slivers. Both were great, I’m sure, but I was too full at that point to register distinct flavors anymore.

To summarize: Kubo’s is the place to take anyone who knows how sushi should taste. Skip all the hot stuff and go straight for the fish and you’ll see why it’s hard not to hold everyone else to their standards. The unpretentious staff and décor make the sushi stand out even more. The only complaint I have is that the location can be a pain to reach. It’s on the second floor of the Village Arcade, near Two Rows and Bombay Brasserie, where people and traffic are always abustle. I would prefer it were on ground level, say next door to my house. It could happen.

2414 University Blvd
Houston, TX 77005
(713) 528-7878

www.Kubos-Sushi.com

Interview with author George Molho

2008-08-01T09:45:00.000-07:00

Interview

A Demitasse of Love

Local Celebrity George Molho, author of “Greek Coffee: A Life of Love, Loss, Family, and Freedom—A Memoir”

By Andrea Afra

The purest thing in the world is a child’s unfiltered love for their family. “Greek Coffee” is a love story but not in the romantic sense. It is about a young boy’s unyielding love for an abusive father and the lengths he went through to survive each day. Even small children are forced to lead a double life, an unfortunate survival skill too many have been made to master.

George Molho was not a stranger to me when I first met him. I had read his memoir and felt something akin to friendship before we’d ever spoken. After our first conversation I knew that I had just met a man that carried the weight of the world in his heart, but willingly. After the first interview with George (Issue #15) I learned that his story had hit home with a number of people but not just those with histories of abuse.

Middle-aged men living the American dream found George a willing listener to their restless opines. They had everything but happiness and had come to the point where their definition of success no longer had a price on it.

In “Greek Coffee” George takes himself apart and puts only the pieces that he truly owns back together. In this manner he is able to find the parts that were formed not by his own opinions but by other’s whom he

strived to live up to. The man I met bears no likeness to the father he feared. His sweet simplicity comes

from his mother, the stubborn family devotion a gift from his grandmother, and his quiet complexity the badge of his grandfather.

It is odd to meet a person whom you know so much about through their writings. The sensation of knowing their past while they know nothing of you is unnerving. Recognizing the Houston landmarks he writes of increases the reality of the story. I wanted to let George know how deeply I related to his memoir. Without disclosing many personal details I told him that it’s a relief to know that no matter where you’ve been, who you’ve loved, how bad you’ve been hurt or how dark the moment may seem, there is always someone else in the world that can understand your tribulations. George’s mother and father are both of Greek descent. His maternal family provided him the love and balance that would see him through what would be looked back on as a descent into a hell where his father reigned. Despite the warning signs, George’s father, Menos, kidnapped him at the age of seven, stealing him away to the small Greek village where his paternal grandparents resided. The

U.S.

authorities refused to help recover him, portraying the abduction as a custody issue. George still keeps a letter of apology written to him from President Carter. Luckily for George, his family followed the laws of love and took matters into their own hands. Nothing would keep their George from returning home. However, a year passes before the reunion and in that time Menos spared his son no mercy. Out of love and fear, little George learned to bear the torture inflicted upon him by the man who is supposed to be his protector. Brainwashed into believing his father’s threats of violence against his mother and maternal grandparents, George succumbed to the abuse in secrecy. Years passed before he disclosed the violence of his father and when he did the dam broke. Confronting his father, forgiving his mother, he realized that he had made the decision to protect what faintly resembled a normal childhood. Love had bound his lips tighter than the cords that bound his wrists in his father’s makeshift dungeon. He could have spoken out at any time and ended the horror. But his father threatened and cried and begged for forgiveness, saying he would die if George told on him, if George stopped loving him. So the son chose to endure his father’s brutality in return for his father’s love.

When it came time for marriage George attracted a woman that didn’t know how to love the way he did. She felt smothered by it instead and pushed him away, knowing he would wait and continue to love her no matter what. In this tug-o-love manner, the couple soon learned that they would have to embrace their individual pasts in order to survive the future together. George set off to decipher the cause and effect of his childhood trauma, finding out the hard way that the past is not behind you, but in you. After three years of preparation “Greek Coffee” has been loosed upon the world. Starting this fall twenty percent of the book’s sales are going to Trinity Children and Family Services, one of the largest nonprofit providers of childcare services in the country. Their mission statement: To help children heal who have been damaged by abuse, neglect, or abandonment and return to society and family. Sadly, there are children all over the world who haven’t found the voice to speak out and save themselves against those who are supposed to be protecting them. But those who have survived are in the most powerful positions to help the helpless because they truly empathize with their lost little brothers and sisters and have found the strength to bare all.

Greek Coffee:

A Life of Love, Loss, Family, and Freedom—A

Memoir

by George Molho

Available at Barnes and Noble, online or just ask for it at your favorite bookstore.

On the edge of the seat at laidback manor (closed but search Randy Rucker for his latest endeavors)

2008-08-01T09:44:00.000-07:00

By Andrea Afra

When I first heard of laidback manor it was from a friend who stopped in there for a lunch bite. They reported back that while it was a fine dining restaurant, they could have sworn that grungy, grinding strains of Nirvana were coming through the speakers. I thought, “Odd, maybe it was playing songs from a radio station?” Curiosity peaked, I Googled laidback manor which brought me to their website. First I looked through the lunch menu. Selections like southern chicken salad, Monte Cristos and flatiron beef were innocent enough. The other menus were titled ‘dinner menu’, ‘the treatment’, ‘the voyage’, and ‘encore’. I feel almost voyeuristic while examining a restaurant’s menus before visiting, like peeking through a fence hole into a neighbor’s yard before attending their dinner party. I already know the layout of the place, what is to be expected. However after reading through Chef Randy Rucker’s food agenda, I felt as if I had discovered something that I shouldn’t have, something that left fear in my heart all the while tempting me to venture further in. Sort of like the Secret Garden. I saw things that I had never seen before in this town. It scared me, but I liked it. I took a closer look.

If you have heard of laidback manor then you have heard of its foie gras chocolate milkshake. The southern city girl in me protested the fusion of liver and cocoa. How dare they taint such a holy ingredient as chocolate with something so decadent as foie gras? I swore then and there that it would never touch my lips. Herein lies the challenge of progressive cuisine in Houston. If it’s not battered in cornmeal or served with a side of gravy will a real Texan even attempt a bite? Would a more mature diner appreciate the whimsical fare coming out of the world’s top kitchens? I invited my grandparents as guinea pigs to test their limits along with mine and to see how far the culinary world has split the generation gap.
While most of the dishes have at least one familiar ingredient, Chef Rucker doesn’t let you get too comfortable. I don’t know anyone under the age of forty that doesn’t agree that Houston needs someone to push the proverbial envelope and not just by following the local trends. Randy Rucker is the guy for the job. At 26 years old he has already run with the best of them, local and national. Born here in Houston and hailing from the quaint town of Tomball, Randy sought out his calling in the culinary world. He found his way from Texas Tech to study culinary arts at Johnson and Wales in Providence, Rhode Island. After graduation, he worked under the guidance of well known local, national and international chefs thriving under the influence of each mentor. Under each chef he learned that it takes more than great food to make a great restaurant. From Chef Mark Cox of Houston’s Mark’s American Cuisine he learned “the importance of utilization and respect for raw product.” From the classic French method he learned under Chef John Richardson of Rhode Island’s Pot au Feu, to the edgy experimental approach of Chef Blumenthal of the Fat Duck in the U.K., the menu of laidback manor reflects the story of Chef Rucker’s life.

The interior of the restaurant is clean, dark, and pretty much a blank canvas. A handful of bright paintings add the only color to the décor, leaving a lot to the imagination. This is all part of the goal Chef Rucker had in mind. When all pretension is removed from a fine dining experience, all that is left is unforgettably good service and food. As an added extravagance laidback manor features a Kitchen Table, which is literally in the kitchen so that a party of diners can watch the chefs in action.

A lot of young chefs nowadays are towing the food line with cooking techniques that require physics and equipment usually found only in science labs. We soon found out what eclectic concoctions Chef Rucker was turning out. Along with industrious sous chef Andrew Rahaut and Justin Basye, the chefs of laidback manor are fearless in their approach to cuisine.

As I said, I invited my grandparents to dine with me, a set up I admit. I knew that some of the dishes that we would encounter would be a little too adventurous for them at first sight but that they would be up for the challenge. Growing up, they were my guides to the world of fine dining, enabling me to taste foods like baramundi fish and Morton Bay sea bugs on a trip to Australia and treating me to local spots like Ruggles and Redwood Grill. While my grandparents are young, fit and classy I have to say that they are a little old fashioned in some areas. My grandfather, Joe, is charmingly pessimistic and my grandmother Gaylene, is a germaphobe at heart.

Our server, Catherine, was less a waitress than a tour-guide. Her knowledge and enthusiasm betrayed her background in wine and gourmet food. Along the way she highlighted what might have been overlooked, introducing us to the media that were used in each dish. And we needed all the help we could get.

The first course of the ‘voyage’ menu was a tray of three items placed before each of us. The first contained a bowl filled with a thin slice of Serrano ham, a spear of white asparagus and a dusting of dried egg yolk. I rolled it up like a cigar, biting into the deceptively mild teaser. I was surprised that the distinct flavor of egg white was so apparent. The next in line was a juicy Rainier cherry dipped whole into smoked white chocolate, served in the center of a glass cube. Beautiful, sweet and delicious, my grandfather commented that he did indeed like it. The last of the trio was the most unique. A large silver spoon with curved handle was introduced as a bloody Mary on a spoon. It contained celery pudding, tomato powder, worcestershire powder, micro celery, and tobasco flakes. To eat it, you put the whole thing in your mouth and let the flavors combine. Sure enough the sensation is that of a spicy bloody Mary, and I was surprised to hear my grandfather say that he liked this as well. Though he had to add, “But what’s the use?”

The next dish was a fish fritter, the chef’s fun take on fish sticks. A ball of fish and potato is fried and served on a small sword with a side of fennel ‘pudding’ and black olive crisp. We all liked this dish, finding it to be comfortably familiar. It was followed with a custard of white asparagus, served chilled with a touch of a creamy anchovy-garlic sauce and a sprinkle of tiny garlic ‘whistle pods’. I was impressed with the concept but not as excited by the mild taste as much as the consistency. But if you appreciate the subtleness of white asparagus don’t miss this dish.

Presented to us next was the beef tartare, a small round of marinated raw beef with a side I found out was a jelly of vegetable soup. It was the weirdest little blob yet I loved it. And though we all order our burgers rare, we took some encouraging from Catherine to taste the tartare. Seasoned with dijon, shallot, capers, piment de espellette, and chive, I enjoyed the taste but the texture of raw meat was too primal for me. I was secretly proud of myself for trying it though. My grandfather liked it and I could tell that my grandmother really wanted to try it so she closed her eyes and took a bite, then another. We applauded her bravery, this woman who traveled to a restaurant in France, only to request that the chef prepare her tartare well done. We all enjoyed a scoop of Chanterelle mushroom ice cream that came with the dish. I never would have guessed that I would have ever had mushrooms that way. It was creamy and cleansing after all the ruckus the tartare had caused.

We oohed and aahed over the dish set before us next, Chef Rucker’s Surf and Turf. The surf-side held seared mahi mahi perched atop a white elf mushroom that sat on a bed of shaved leeks. A bite of this was to be dragged through a vibrant green streak of peppery arugula juice that adorned the plate. The meaty mushroom and perfectly cooked fish were easily one of my favorite dishes of the evening. The turf end of the deal was a thick, salty cut of pork belly served with a swatch of celery ‘froth’ that cut through the saltiness of the meat. I personally am not a huge fan of pork but my grandparents are always ordering chops and enjoyed this cut as well.

We sat back and sighed, wondering when this influx of food would subside. After eight presentations we were beginning to feel full, though the portions and timing allowed us to continue steadfast in our goal to reach the end. Up to bat was Atlantic salmon with a bed of buttery black ‘forbidden’ rice under a veil of Manhattan clam chowder froth. The briny clam flavors served to enhance the salmon without overpowering it. Forbidden rice is black from its high phytonutrient content, and named so because of its history of being reserved for the emperors of ancient China. It added striking visual contrast to the fish and its flavor was nutty and complex compared to average long grain white rice which has little nutritional value. This dish, too, was a table favorite.

A glass tube of quince soda was brought out for each of us, another great palate cleanser. This was then followed by, to my surprise, the foie gras chocolate milkshake. I really thought I was going to walk away from the evening without having to face this trial. Intrigue overcame my aversion and my grandmother and I tried a sip at the same time. Creamy, rich, chocolately, frosty, it was all of the things a milkshake should be. The last taste ended on a borderline savory note with a grainy hint of the liver to remind us that we were indeed sucking pate through a straw. I hated myself for loving it. I finished the glass.

A succulent duck sous-vide served with a puree of banana and a curry reduction was brought out. Again, the presentation was a work of art and we all agreed that while we typically wouldn’t order duck, this version was different. The texture was sublime and the flavor was perfectly preserved from the mode of preparation. Sous-vide is a method of cooking in a vacuum sealed plastic bag and controlled by an immersion circulator that regulates the temperature exactly to the degree desired. The banana complimented the duck though the curry reduction was too subtle to play a role in the overall taste.

Flatiron beef, also prepared sous-vide, was juicy and perfectly cooked save for one bite that was too tough. This can happen with any cut of meat so it wasn’t a factor in the total scheme of things. A chef friend of mine said that this can happen even when the circulator is used, usually due to the bag sitting in one position for a moment too long as they will do if caught on another item or the side of the basin. It was served on fermented cabbage, much like sauerkraut in taste and odor.

We were seriously nearing our limit when the second to last course was brought out. Luckily I was able to muster up enough energy to taste one of the most heavenly cheeses I’ve ever had. The Humboldt Fog goat cheese is akin to a cross of Stilton and Brie. Its divinely creamy texture gently melted in my mouth as I imagined it spread on a crispy slice of Wassa or soda crackers. I ate a bite of it with the homemade candied walnuts nearby and together the flavors soared higher. I felt the end nearing and I blindly reached for a small slice of seared cantaloupe. Sweet and warm, one side browned from the heated metal pan, the simple approach added so much to one of my favorite fruits. Last in line before the final course, an ice cream made with port wine. Serene and dulcet, the port essence was a mere yet distinctive whisper.

Finally we made it to the last course of Tres Leches. Two kinds of cake, chocolate and white chocolate, were topped with caramelesque dulce de leche, ice cream and whipped cream. A wafer thin crisp adorned the top. I took a few bites and sat back wondering how I’d made it to the end as I slowly exhaled.

This wasn’t just a meal. It was a full blown production. I felt I should thank the chefs who had orchestrated such a superb dinner. I peeked back into the kitchen where I saw Chef Rucker with his back turned to me, facing the line. His arms spread wide as he leaned over reading the score, timing everything the way a conductor does.

He turned and I thanked him and he asked me how everything was. I answered honestly that we all had enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. The reason the restaurant is called the laidback manor is to reflect the laidback staff and how they want you to feel during your time with them.

At our follow up Chef Rucker quoted what Thomas Keller said about ingredients and application – “‘Anybody can make beef tenderloin taste good, but it takes a true culinarian to make tripe taste good.’” Ingredients don't make the cook, their passion and talent does!” And passion is as important as salt.

On the way home we discussed our opinions of the meal. I was truly enchanted and inspired. My grandmother was emboldened by her venturesome trials and tastings. My grandfather however still had trouble wrapping his mind around the experience and didn’t really appreciate the ambitious concepts that Chef Rucker had materialized. “I just don’t see the point”, he said.

“The point is that you experienced something new,” I told him. “Something you’ll talk about and remember for a long time.”

He reluctantly agreed that it was, indeed, unforgettable.

06 Main St, Houston, 77002 - (713) 227-0402

A Visual Feast- Arturo’s Uptown Italiano is an ocular delight

2008-08-01T09:40:00.000-07:00

By Andrea Afra

A few years ago, Uptown Park was nothing more than land off the side of a feeder road. Seemingly overnight a shopping center of grand proportions appeared, full of upscale merchants to meet the needs of the areas opulent masses. As I drove through the center I knew I had to be overlooking my destination until I saw it just across the road from the main parking lot of Uptown Park. The sun drew my eyes to a gold glowing exterior with its crimson awnings and the name enblazened across the top: Arturo’s. I chastised myself for passing it by repeatedly after seeing how obviously visible it was.

Located just behind the main shopping center of Uptown Park, Arturo’s Uptown Italiano commands nearly a whole parking lot for its valet parking. A large, sprawling brick-paved patio seats diners shaded by large canvas umbrellas.

Entering the restaurant I noticed that the interior was meant to create a deconstructed feel of casual luxury. Comfy red leather booths and chairs, white linens, and fairly spacious table placement balanced the capricious Italian mural over a large, well-stocked bar.

Our waitress seated us and took drink and appetizer orders. Soon we were sipping Prosecco and Shiraz and munching on a ridiculously large fried appetizer platter with an assortment of tasty tempura fried artichoke hearts (the unanimous favorite of the table) along with fried shrimp, some of the best calamari I’ve tasted in ages and spicy slices of Italian sausage. It was served with a creamy artichoke mayonnaise sauce and a side of chunky house marinara. The calamari had me all confused because it wasn’t super chewy like most places serve it. I know a lot of folks like this extra effort but I found rubber to be too appetizing, even if it was fried. The sausage was very heavy, but spicy and good.

Simplicity and fresh ingredients pervade the entire menu. Yellow and red grape tomato halves are tossed with fresh mozzarella and herbs from Arturo’s garden. The cheese is infused with the basil’s aroma just by being near it. The cheese in the Portabello and goat cheese salad is so thick and creamy, that the crunch provided by toasted walnuts and crispy pancetta slivers is almost imposing, yet still delicious. During a previous visit I sampled Sonia’s Ravioli appetizer—a large pasta pillow stuffed with Porcini mushrooms and chicken then topped with jumbo lump crabmeat and a divinely aromatic white wine and basil cream sauce. It went well with the mela salad with its sweet citrus mustard dressing spooned over mixed greens then tossed with thinly sliced red and green apple and gorgonzola. I was offered a glass of cantaloupe juice to go with it and it was a perfect summery meal.

When our entrees arrived the vapors rising with the heat from the plates carried lovely bouquets of the simple flavors of Italy. Steaming mussels and scallops in their shells were piled upon cuts of red snapper, tender calamari and big curled shrimp in the appropriately named ‘Frutti Di Mare’. The ‘fruits of the sea’ were aptly represented, and stole the show from the shallow marinara like soup sharing the bowl. Long, thin strips of orange peel not only added aesthetic appeal but the calamari took on a fleeting touch of the citrus flavor.

The farfalle margherita pasta displayed how harmonious certain ingredients can be when brought together. Tossed in a sheer jacket of olive oil, tomato sauce, and basil, the dish lacked the usual overkill of marinara found at other restaurants. I love the way that tomatoes can be stripped of all color and still retain such a great taste. Though we were all sharing I managed to spear most of the fresh mozzarella that had begun to melt under the doughy bowties.

The last entrée was an off menu item, a large pork tenderloin grilled and topped with a lemon-butter caper sauce. I personally don’t eat much pork but the cut of meat was juicy and tender and the sauce was an ideal robe to dress it in. A sprinkle of chives and rosemary and an escort of roasted vegetables brought the dish together.

In the end we sampled a light and creamy tiramisu and a thick and rich flourless chocolate walnut cake. Both were delicious with our cappuccino mini biscotti.

In summary, Arturo’s Uptown Italiano doesn’t take too many risks in its dishes. The simple recipes are familiar comfort foods prepared with a steady hand and superior ingredients. The décor and service are classy without being pretentious. Arturo takes pride in consistent quality before elaborate flair. But to him it’s just another well earned notch in a well worn belt of risks that have turned to gold.

1180-1 Uptown Park Blvd 713.621.1180